First absolute ascension of the Aconcagua The English alpinist Edward Fitz Gerald, during the meridional summer of 1897 led an expedition that climbed the sentinel of stone for the first time . Fitz Gerald’s group acceded to the stony slope of the Northwest side of the mountain after following upstream the Horcones River. After some hard tries, the Swiss Mathias Zurbriggen reached the summit alone January 14th, 1897. afew days later , Nicholas Lanti and Stuart Vines, members of the same expedition, made the second absolute climbing following the same route.
First Argentine Ascension
Lieutenant Nicholas Plantamura of the Argentine Army reached the summit in 1934 in company of the Italian alpinists P Ceresa, P Ghiglione, R Chabod and the Chilean rancher Mariano Pasten. They climbed along the normal Route.
First Ascension of the polish glacier
In March 1934, The Polish V. Otrowski, K Narkiewicz, S Daszinski and S Osieckiopened a new itinerary to the summit along the beautiful Northeast Glacier, achieving at the same time the eighth absolute ascension of the mountain. Since then the glacier is called the Polish Glacier.
First Absolute Femenine Ascension
It was done by the French Adrienne Bance, the 7th of March of 1940, in company of the German Lopez Link and Members of the Andinist Club of Mendoza, Pablo Franke, P Etura, D Lopez and J Semper
First Ascension of the Southern Summit
The German T Koop and L Herold reached the Southern Summit of mount Aconcagua for the first time in January 1947. They followed the Normal Routeas far as the middle of the Canaleta , then they turned to the right (west).
First Winter Climbing of the Aconcagua
By the normal Route the Argentines E Huerta, H Vasalla and F Godoy made the first winter climbing between September 11th and 15th of 1953.
First Climbing of the South Wall
The very important first climbing of international repercussion, was done by the FrenchParagot ,Poulet, Dagory, Berandini, Lesseur and Denis. At the end of February 1954they reached the summit after seven hard climbing days.
First Ascension of the East Glacier (English Glacier)
During February 1978 climbing in alpine style, the Argentines Vieiro (+) , Porcelana(+) and Jasson , opened a new route to the summit with important technical difficulties. It is called Argentine Route.
First Traverse from the Southern to Northern Summit
During the meridional winter of 1980, the Catalans Serrat and Villena with the support of a team, reached the summit climbing the Polish Glacier. They used skis on a major part of the itinerary.
First Descending in Delta Wing
The prestigious French alpinist J M Boivin Flew a double plaza delta wing with L Marchal, descending in 30 minutes to Plaza de Mulas. They climbed three times to the summit until the climatological conditions were acceptable for the flight. This was inJanuary of 1981.
First Solo Climbing of the South Wall.
The French Ivan Girardini, in four days, following the French Route/54 and taking the Messner’s variation, reached the summit in January of 1981 making this remarkable premier.
First Winter Climbing of the South Wall
A Japanese expedition made this difficult and hard premier in August 1981. Hasegawareached the summit alone after choosing the Messner’s exit.
First Female Climbing of the South Wall
The northamerican Titonne Bouchard and her husband, following the French 54/ Messner Route climbed the South Wall, becoming the first woman in ascending this difficult face of the Mountain.
First Descending in Parapente
The 11th of February of 1985, the Captain of the French Air Force A Steves, unfolded his light parapente about 200m below the summit. By catchingascending currents he went up about 20 meters above it. He arrived to Plaza de Mulas 25 minutes later.
First Local Climbing of the South Wall
The Mendocinian D Alvarez, M Sanchez, D Rodriguez, the Colombian M Barrios andAlejandro Randis, reached the summit the 23 of February of 1986. The climbing was done in alpine style following the original French/54 route.
First Descending of the South Wall without using ropes
The strong Slovenian alpinist Slavko Sveticic descended in ten hours from Del Guanaco Col until Plaza Francia without carrying a rope. Previously he climbed with M Romic a new variation of the Southwest Ridge, making the first ascension of the Aconcagua’s Pyramid (6000m) by the South Pillar. January 1988.
First Climbing of the West Wall
A team from Mendoza, integrated by Daniel Rodriguez an a fellow, achieved the climbing of this defeating wall of the Aconcagua in four days. The route goes through the center of the great wall of 2800m and end in the Southwest Ridge, very close to the Southern Summit. They surpassed some steep ice cascades and difficult rock passages.
Flash Climbing of the Normal Route
January 1987 L. Cichy, Poland 9 hours
January 1987 A. Randis, Argentina 8,7 hours
February 1987 D. Alessio, Argentina 7,48 hours
February 1987 M. Sanchez, Argentina 6,32 hours
January 1989 M. Dacher, Germany 6,15 hours
January 1989 M.Schmidt , USA 6,13 hours
December 1991 D. Porsche, Germany 5,45 hours.
First Ascension of the two summits in one day
The 6th of February of 1991, Alejandro Randis accomplished the climbing of the two summits in one day departing from Plaza de Mulas and returning to the same place. Total Time, base camp +Southern summit + Northern summit + Base camp : 14 hours.
First Climbing of the Polish Glacier in one day
In February 1992, the climber Miguel Lito Sanchez, from Mendoza, became the first alpinist in ascending the Polish Glacier departing from Plaza de Mulas and returning to the same place (by the normal route) in the same day.
First Ascension of the “Via de los Guías Mendocinos”
In February of 1994 R. Gabrielli (ex Governer of The Province of Mendoza); A. Lafalla(ex Governer of the Province of Mendoza); J. Guiaquinta; D. Alvarez; C. Santilli; D. Rodriguez; O. Brusadin and Alejandro Randis opened a new Route that is situated at the right of the “Gran Acarreo”.